Loch Vale Ski Tour

   Here are some photos from my ski tour up to Loch Vale in Rocky Mountain National Park last friday, the 9th of December. I was on skis to scope out some new terrain. The Park reveals many mysteries and challenges to the willing, but one must work for it. The Loch Vale area is known for its epic alpine rock climbs and a number desperate high altitude ice climbs. It is sure to become a regular destination for my alpine pursuits.

Here is a map showing Loch Vale. My ski tour followed the orange path.
The blue triangle is the location of  the Loch Vale ice climbing that I wrote about in last week's post.
Click for a larger view.

some short formations on the way through the winter cutoff

some windblown snow formations upon the Loch, looking SE

looking deeper NW toward the Cathededral Spires

The alpine legend, Deep Freeze, (the tiny ice runnel) first climbed by
John Long in 1989, looking to be in decent conditions.
I think I'll save this one for next season.

Loch Vale Ice

location: Loch Vale Gorge, Rocky Mountain National Park
date: December 2nd, 2011
team members: Tyler H., Dusty B.

just your friendly neighborhood ice monkey

     This past friday, I headed up to Rocky Mountain National Park with my friend Dusty to do a little ice climbing. Although we had a nasty warm spell at the end of November, things really cooled off at the end of last week. Climbing rock is fine when the weather is warm, but the cold is better for ice.

Loch Vale spread

     This was my first visit to Loch Vale ice in the Park. Dusty learned the path up there from another of our coworkers, John, and was eager to blaze the trail. When we arrived at the parking lot Friday morning, the wind was howling. We could see thick whisps of snow blowing off of the tops of nearby peaks. Thankfully, we were to be climbing below treeline and out of the wind. We decided we didn't need snowshoes for the trek up and set off on the boot pack. Dusty said the trail was well packed the last time he had headed up, and we found the going to be easy.

view from near the top of our giant slingshot top rope

     After a two and a half mile stroll through the beautiful winter alpine forests, we arrived at our query. There were two main flows in at Loch Vale. The first is known as Crystal Meth and is a very intimidating pillar about 80 feet in height, and 30 feet wide. A little to spicey for me to lead just yet...maybe next season. We were planning to climb the much more managable flows just down the cliff band. Although I lead-climbed the rope and built an anchor, we spent most of the day top roping the moderate lines coming in at just near vertical and between about 35 and 45 feet tall. It is always good to practice good technique in safety before undertaking larger risks. It is generally not good style to fall while leading an ice route.

     The ice was quite airy in places on the right-most end, although it could take screws in places. This made for encouraging climbing, but sketchy leading. The ice in the middle column of the flow was in better shape, and more blue in color. Although it was taller, the climbing in the central section was easier to climb, because it had been hooked out by other eager climbers.

Dusty goin' for it

    We climbed until darkness crept into the hills and we were near delirious from exertion. Sunrise to sunset was the order of the day. The climbs at Loch Vale were only a taste of the greater selection of ice in the Park, and I am sure that I will be coming back soon. Next on tap? We'll see if I can parse together some more screws for a moderate multipitch climb...

here is me cruising up one of the easier lines
photo credit: Dusty B

Early Season Ice Climbing

Date of trip: November 21st, 2011
Team Members: Tyler H., Tobin C.

  The time has come once again winter fans. Cold is here and the ice is coming in fat.

our little jungle-gym

   Here in the Colorado Rockies, it often isn't until December that good ice can be found. On Monday, Tobin and I got lucky when we traveled to a favorite flow of ours on the recommendation of a co-worker. This ice is single pitch and is at an undisclosed location in the Front Range. It is a short, but reliable flow and is usually uncrowded. We found it to be coming in in fine condition. Hence the discretion... It was the perfect spot for an early season warm up.

Tobin on rappel, after having rigged the anchor

   The ice was in good shape for early season. It was light blue in color, with few air pockets on the left side, and drippy with styrofoamy-ice on the right. In the middle of the flow was a fun line in which one had to stem your way up. Although short, anything was challenging while getting back into good form.

me (left) pulling through the crux on the stemming line -photo credit: Tobin C.

   Tobin and I are getting into our third season of climbing ice. After having spent a few seasons learning about  ice and top-roping, I am hoping to lead a few more difficult routes this season. It is still too early to tell what ice will be in good and where, so here is for hoping for a good season. Right now, things are looking good.

"just here to have fun" -photo credit: Tobin C.

    Stay tuned for more winter fun as things get colder, snowier and icier...

Early Season Ski Report

location: St. Mary's Glacier
date: November 11th, 2011

   There is snow to be had in the high mountains, although it is hard enough to find. This season, I was blessed with a new pair of touring skis, the Black Diamond Aspect ski. My older, heavier planks begged for groomed pastures. To test the new setup, I decided to make a trip to St. Mary's, where there is always snow to be
found.

   Although there was little enough snowpack, the touring was pleasant and the weather was sunny and fine. Fully mounted, my setup was a few pounds lighter than last season, and it was very noticeable on the up-hill. I was able to get in a few laps up and down the snowfield before heading back.
   The terrain at St. Mary's isn't very extreme, but it is accessible and very encouraging. The title Glacier is something of a misnomer as well. Colorado is not known for it's glaciers, as we are too far south. Instead, St. Mary's is a 'snowfield' which remains in some part throughout the entire year.
   Thats right kids, even after A-Basin closes, you can still shred the slush here...

View from the top

   Looking out into the James Peak Wilderness from the top, I longed to see much more snow. As can be seen in the photo above, it was slim pickin's on the way back down before drifting back into the main snowfield below. But not to worry, there will be much more snow coming soon as we get further into the cold season. I know I am crossing my fingers.

earn those turns!

   

Season's End Round up

Winter is on our heels, and the warm season is gone for sure. Here is a recap of my latest adventures in the last few weeks of October. Keep a lookout for winter updates, because the climbing season never truly ends. I will be making posts including ice climbing and backcountry skiing for all you snow and ice freaks like me!

A Climber headed up Pitch One of Standard East Face  - Third Flatiron

   On the 7th of October, Dusty and I had the pleasure of climbing one of Boulder's most classic routes: the Standard East Face route on the Third Flatiron. This climb is long and moderate and can be accomplished by most anyone. I was eager to put this one up because despite being a Boulder native, I had never climbed a Flatiron!

Pitch Three. Photo Credit: Dusty B.

   The weather was sunny, and a little breezy. The route was very crowded for a week day. There were parties waiting at every belay station along the way. It is a sight to see so many teams waiting patently on 1000 feet of limestone. We climbed up slab in the sun for the first few pitches, before dipping into shadows as the sun set. The climbing was easy at 5.6 or so, with virtually no difficult moves. Many people simply free-solo this whole route in tennis shoes with no problems.
    Although the climbing took the better part of the day, conditions were good, and we were able to make it down the twin rappels before full darkness fell upon us. Spectacular climb.

Me Getting Ready for the Rappels. Photo Credit: Dusty B.

View from Hamburger Rock Campsite

   Over the weekend of the 14th of October, I made my first journey to Indian Creek in Utah. This area is famous for its endless intimidating splitter cracks. This trip was a departure from my other outings this season because it was out of state and I would be doing some volunteer work for the American Alpine Club. I attended the annual Indian Creek Volunteer Day organized by the illustrious Jim Donini of alpinism fame.
   For this trip, I decided to carpool and make some new friends. I rode up with Silvia and her daughter Giulia and their chiwawa Chiwi. Although we arrived late Thursday, we had to relocate up the road after making contact with Jim and the rest of the AAC volunteers. Jim had cordoned off a good space at Pasture Creek where we could congregate and camp. Silvia, Giulia and I spent the rest of the day at the Reservoir Wall about 4 miles east of our camp. This type of crack climbing and sandstone were all new to me, so I let Silvia do the leading since she had more experience.

Silvia's lead up the 5.10+ route called Neat

Watching some new friends who travelled from Canmore, Calgary to visit the desert.

    The climbing was humbling to say the least. Although my crack technique is not bad, it takes serious mettle to keep it together on a 120 foot overhanging hand crack, even on TR.

   On Saturday, about 50 volunteers assisted Bob from the BLM to tidy up camping spots at Hamburger Rock, just up the road from Creek Pasture. Our work included revegitation work, building tent-pads and levelling picnic tables, building a fence and other basic clean up work. We had so many willing volunteers that there was often not enough work to go around! For many, this work day was simply a rest day from crack climbing; a testament to the rough nature of the area.

Some Volunteers doing Revegitation Work

   Saturday night, we gathered around the campfire for some buffalo burgers and potato salad served up by Jim and his lovely wife Angela. The night was clear and the stars were bright. Bob from the BLM came and visited us to give this thanks. The area of Indian Creek has been seeing more use over the past few decades, and although it is completely unregulated, the desert ecosystem was being put under serious strain. Thanks in part to the efforts of the AAC, climbers from around the country have been showing up annually to help to take care of this beautiful area. 

   Jim Donini showed everyone what was what on the following day at his "Crack Climbing Clinic" at the Super Crack Buttress. Despite his 60+ years, Jim is a grand master of the climbing arts. His skill is a testament to the degree of finesse involved in what many see as a sport all about strength and endurance. Strength certainly counts for a lot, but one must know how to use one's body's natural strengths in order to climb with the greatest skill and efficiency. We spent the afternoon at Supercrack setting topropes so that everyone could have a shot at some of the classics. 

Some Fellow Volunteers Having a Go at the Crack

 
   The desert is a magical place. But serene and delicate, it requires our care if we are to continue visiting it. I will be sure to head back to the Creek soon, hopefully with more cams and a longer rope!

 
   I had the opportunity to embark on a number of excellent climbing adventures this past spring and summer. By reading past posts in this blog, you can follow my routes with me and my partners among the classics. My trad climbing and leading skills improved greatly this past season, and I can only hope that this winter will be as rewarding. The snows and ice of winter are coming, don't forget your direwolf!

Cragging Report - The Riviera, Boulder Canyon

Type: Single Pitch Sport

Team Members: Jake S., Tyler H.

Location: The Riviera, Boulder Canyon

Routes: Lease Agreement 5.10b, New Lease on Life 5.10a, Topless Etiquette 5.8, Le Nouveau Riche 5.10a

Jake headed up Topless Etiqutte

     Fall is here; The leaves are changing and things are cooling off. Today was an occasion that we could make our way back to a favorite south facing climbing locales without cooking. Before work, I planned to do some climbing with Jake in Boulder Canyon. Our destination was The Riviera, a classic crag containing a host of single-pitch sport and trad climbing routes. We were able to put up many routes, and another bluebird day was ours on the rocks in good ol' Boulder Canyon.

     The Riviera crag was located about seven miles up Boulder Canyon. Bolted routes stretch across the south facing cliff for about two hundred feet. This location is famous for its wide range of routes, ranging from a meager 5.6 all the way to 5.11b. In total, Jake and were able to climb four routes. We warmed up on a 5.8 known as "Topless Etiquette", in which one climbed up a crack system, linking to a broken quartz seam. From there, it passes up through granite jugs to a two-bolt anchor mounted upon a face. We then moved a route over to the more stout "Le Nouveau Riche," a 5.10a. This route passed mainly up a smooth slab, demanding balancy technique. With no footholds to speak of, we had to bear-hug our way on up. Feeling groovy, we moved on down to the end of the wall to hit two more 5.10's. A .10a steep slab-to-jugs clamber called "New Lease on Life" and a 10.b short-but-gnarly lieback finger-crack, "Lease Agreement." 

     As with many climbing locales close to town, routes can often become quite crowded. When Jake and I showed up, there was another group at the far end of the wall. We were surprised when a veritable conga-line of 8th graders began crawling their way up to the cliffs. Once arrived, young instructors carried ropes on lead up to anchors on the east end of the wall, so that young pupils could top-rope to their hearts content. Despite their size, they only held up at one end of the wall. It was fun to climb near to so many excited neophytes.

Schoolkids making their way up

Cragging Report - Lumpy Ridge, Batman Pinnacle

Trip Type: Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing

Team Members: Tyler H., Dusty B.

Location: Lumpy Ridge, Rocky Mountain National Park

Route: Batman & Robin, Batman Pinnacle

Type: Trad, 4 pitches, 5.6, ~400 ft in length

Dusty and I on the summit

      This week, my co-worker and co-adventurer Dusty and I headed up to Lumpy Ridge. The climbing last week on the White Whale route drew me back. Although Dusty and I had been on a backpacking trip together (see Fairchild Loop), this would be our first rock climbing outing. On a recommendation, we were going to climb the Batman and Robin route on Batman Pinnacle. The approach was shorter than to Left Book, which would mean that we would have more time to poke around after the climb. It was another splendid day of awesome climbing at Lumpy Ridge.

Dusty beneath Batman Pinnacle, near the start of our route

      We left Boulder at 9 a.m. and headed straight for the Park. With a clearer sense of direction this time around, we arrived at the trailhead without issue. Our route, Batman and Robin was located on the Batman Pinnacle, about 1.5 miles from the trailhead. Because it was located on a rock spire, our route was very easy to find. We climbed up steep terrain and boulderfields to arrive at the base of the route.

    Dusty prepared the rope for climbing while I racked up and searched the face for a clean way up.  Batman and Robin is a traditional route which is usually four pitches in length. It moves along granite flakes to beneath a giant flake, where I set up the first anchor. From there, I belayed Dusty up and thereafter, prepare to climb the next pitch. The second pitch passed up a crack system, through a short chimney move, up to the foot of the final section of the tower. I was able to link the second and third pitches, thereby keeping the climbing speedier. I again belayed Dusty up the next pitch, while he cleaned the gear from the rock, so it could be used on the next pitch. The final pitch was composed of easy moves up a series of blocks leading to a wide summit. From there we would use two bolt anchors to rappel off into a nearby rock gully to the east. On the descent, we made the spectacular rappel from the summit. From there we were forced to make two more rappels and do some downclimbing to get back to the base of the pinnacle, and our backpacks. Despite the lengthy process, it was a fun descent in classic mountaineering style.

Me leading up pitch two.  Photo Credit: Dusty B

The rappel from the summit! Photo Credit: Dusty B

     After the climb, we scrambled around to nearby Batman Rock to scope out some other moderate multi-pitch routes. Although we didn’t have enough time to climb another, we knew where to find them when we came back. Despite getting off trail and having to scramble down a steep gully, the trip back was picturesque, passing by the McGregor Ranch and through the changing aspen forests. As ever, Lumpy was a great destination.

Looking down from belay station two.  Photo Credit: Dusty B

Rock-work of protection leading up to the summit.  Photo Credit: Dusty B