Loch Vale Ice

location: Loch Vale Gorge, Rocky Mountain National Park
date: December 2nd, 2011
team members: Tyler H., Dusty B.

just your friendly neighborhood ice monkey

     This past friday, I headed up to Rocky Mountain National Park with my friend Dusty to do a little ice climbing. Although we had a nasty warm spell at the end of November, things really cooled off at the end of last week. Climbing rock is fine when the weather is warm, but the cold is better for ice.

Loch Vale spread

     This was my first visit to Loch Vale ice in the Park. Dusty learned the path up there from another of our coworkers, John, and was eager to blaze the trail. When we arrived at the parking lot Friday morning, the wind was howling. We could see thick whisps of snow blowing off of the tops of nearby peaks. Thankfully, we were to be climbing below treeline and out of the wind. We decided we didn't need snowshoes for the trek up and set off on the boot pack. Dusty said the trail was well packed the last time he had headed up, and we found the going to be easy.

view from near the top of our giant slingshot top rope

     After a two and a half mile stroll through the beautiful winter alpine forests, we arrived at our query. There were two main flows in at Loch Vale. The first is known as Crystal Meth and is a very intimidating pillar about 80 feet in height, and 30 feet wide. A little to spicey for me to lead just yet...maybe next season. We were planning to climb the much more managable flows just down the cliff band. Although I lead-climbed the rope and built an anchor, we spent most of the day top roping the moderate lines coming in at just near vertical and between about 35 and 45 feet tall. It is always good to practice good technique in safety before undertaking larger risks. It is generally not good style to fall while leading an ice route.

     The ice was quite airy in places on the right-most end, although it could take screws in places. This made for encouraging climbing, but sketchy leading. The ice in the middle column of the flow was in better shape, and more blue in color. Although it was taller, the climbing in the central section was easier to climb, because it had been hooked out by other eager climbers.

Dusty goin' for it

    We climbed until darkness crept into the hills and we were near delirious from exertion. Sunrise to sunset was the order of the day. The climbs at Loch Vale were only a taste of the greater selection of ice in the Park, and I am sure that I will be coming back soon. Next on tap? We'll see if I can parse together some more screws for a moderate multipitch climb...

here is me cruising up one of the easier lines
photo credit: Dusty B