Winter is on our heels, and the warm season is gone for sure. Here is a recap of my latest adventures in the last few weeks of October. Keep a lookout for winter updates, because the climbing season never truly ends. I will be making posts including ice climbing and backcountry skiing for all you snow and ice freaks like me!
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| A Climber headed up Pitch One of Standard East Face - Third Flatiron |
On the 7th of October, Dusty and I had the pleasure of climbing one of Boulder's most classic routes: the Standard East Face route on the Third Flatiron. This climb is long and moderate and can be accomplished by most anyone. I was eager to put this one up because despite being a Boulder native, I had never climbed a Flatiron!
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| Pitch Three. Photo Credit: Dusty B. |
The weather was sunny, and a little breezy. The route was very crowded for a week day. There were parties waiting at every belay station along the way. It is a sight to see so many teams waiting patently on 1000 feet of limestone. We climbed up slab in the sun for the first few pitches, before dipping into shadows as the sun set. The climbing was easy at 5.6 or so, with virtually no difficult moves. Many people simply free-solo this whole route in tennis shoes with no problems.
Although the climbing took the better part of the day, conditions were good, and we were able to make it down the twin rappels before full darkness fell upon us. Spectacular climb.
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| Me Getting Ready for the Rappels. Photo Credit: Dusty B. |
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| View from Hamburger Rock Campsite |
Over the weekend of the 14th of October, I made my first journey to Indian Creek in Utah. This area is famous for its endless intimidating splitter cracks. This trip was a departure from my other outings this season because it was out of state and I would be doing some volunteer work for the American Alpine Club. I attended the annual Indian Creek Volunteer Day organized by the illustrious Jim Donini of alpinism fame.
For this trip, I decided to carpool and make some new friends. I rode up with Silvia and her daughter Giulia and their chiwawa Chiwi. Although we arrived late Thursday, we had to relocate up the road after making contact with Jim and the rest of the AAC volunteers. Jim had cordoned off a good space at Pasture Creek where we could congregate and camp. Silvia, Giulia and I spent the rest of the day at the Reservoir Wall about 4 miles east of our camp. This type of crack climbing and sandstone were all new to me, so I let Silvia do the leading since she had more experience.
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| Silvia's lead up the 5.10+ route called Neat |
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| Watching some new friends who travelled from Canmore, Calgary to visit the desert. |
The climbing was humbling to say the least. Although my crack technique is not bad, it takes serious mettle to keep it together on a 120 foot overhanging hand crack, even on TR.
On Saturday, about 50 volunteers assisted Bob from the BLM to tidy up camping spots at Hamburger Rock, just up the road from Creek Pasture. Our work included revegitation work, building tent-pads and levelling picnic tables, building a fence and other basic clean up work. We had so many willing volunteers that there was often not enough work to go around! For many, this work day was simply a rest day from crack climbing; a testament to the rough nature of the area.
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Some Volunteers doing Revegitation Work
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Saturday night, we gathered around the campfire for some buffalo burgers and potato salad served up by Jim and his lovely wife Angela. The night was clear and the stars were bright. Bob from the BLM came and visited us to give this thanks. The area of Indian Creek has been seeing more use over the past few decades, and although it is completely unregulated, the desert ecosystem was being put under serious strain. Thanks in part to the efforts of the AAC, climbers from around the country have been showing up annually to help to take care of this beautiful area.
Jim Donini showed everyone what was what on the following day at his "Crack Climbing Clinic" at the Super Crack Buttress. Despite his 60+ years, Jim is a grand master of the climbing arts. His skill is a testament to the degree of finesse involved in what many see as a sport all about strength and endurance. Strength certainly counts for a lot, but one must know how to use one's body's natural strengths in order to climb with the greatest skill and efficiency. We spent the afternoon at Supercrack setting topropes so that everyone could have a shot at some of the classics.
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| Some Fellow Volunteers Having a Go at the Crack |
The desert is a magical place. But serene and delicate, it requires our care if we are to continue visiting it. I will be sure to head back to the Creek soon, hopefully with more cams and a longer rope!
I had the opportunity to embark on a number of excellent climbing adventures this past spring and summer. By reading past posts in this blog, you can follow my routes with me and my partners among the classics. My trad climbing and leading skills improved greatly this past season, and I can only hope that this winter will be as rewarding. The snows and ice of winter are coming, don't forget your direwolf!
