Thursday, September 29, 2011

Cragging Report - Lumpy Ridge, Batman Pinnacle

Trip Type: Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing
Team Members: Tyler H., Dusty B.
Location: Lumpy Ridge, Rocky Mountain National Park
Route: Batman & Robin, Batman Pinnacle
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, 5.6, ~400 ft in length

Dusty and I on the summit

      This week, my co-worker and co-adventurer Dusty and I headed up to Lumpy Ridge. The climbing last week on the White Whale route drew me back. Although Dusty and I had been on a backpacking trip together (see Fairchild Loop), this would be our first rock climbing outing. On a recommendation, we were going to climb the Batman and Robin route on Batman Pinnacle. The approach was shorter than to Left Book, which would mean that we would have more time to poke around after the climb. It was another splendid day of awesome climbing at Lumpy Ridge.

Dusty beneath Batman Pinnacle, near the start of our route
      We left Boulder at 9 a.m. and headed straight for the Park. With a clearer sense of direction this time around, we arrived at the trailhead without issue. Our route, Batman and Robin was located on the Batman Pinnacle, about 1.5 miles from the trailhead. Because it was located on a rock spire, our route was very easy to find. We climbed up steep terrain and boulderfields to arrive at the base of the route.
    Dusty prepared the rope for climbing while I racked up and searched the face for a clean way up.  Batman and Robin is a traditional route which is usually four pitches in length. It moves along granite flakes to beneath a giant flake, where I set up the first anchor. From there, I belayed Dusty up and thereafter, prepare to climb the next pitch. The second pitch passed up a crack system, through a short chimney move, up to the foot of the final section of the tower. I was able to link the second and third pitches, thereby keeping the climbing speedier. I again belayed Dusty up the next pitch, while he cleaned the gear from the rock, so it could be used on the next pitch. The final pitch was composed of easy moves up a series of blocks leading to a wide summit. From there we would use two bolt anchors to rappel off into a nearby rock gully to the east. On the descent, we made the spectacular rappel from the summit. From there we were forced to make two more rappels and do some downclimbing to get back to the base of the pinnacle, and our backpacks. Despite the lengthy process, it was a fun descent in classic mountaineering style.

Me leading up pitch two.  Photo Credit: Dusty B

The rappel from the summit! Photo Credit: Dusty B
     After the climb, we scrambled around to nearby Batman Rock to scope out some other moderate multi-pitch routes. Although we didn’t have enough time to climb another, we knew where to find them when we came back. Despite getting off trail and having to scramble down a steep gully, the trip back was picturesque, passing by the McGregor Ranch and through the changing aspen forests. As ever, Lumpy was a great destination.

Looking down from belay station two.  Photo Credit: Dusty B

Rock-work of protection leading up to the summit.  Photo Credit: Dusty B


Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Cragging Report - Lumpy Ridge, Left Book

Lumpy Ridge – White Whale

Trip Date: Friday, September 23rd, 2011

Jake and I at the anchor at pitch two on White Whale
   In this trip, Jake and I cruised up to Rocky Mountain National Park to do a little trad climbing. Rocky is famous for its bountiful crags located in a high mountain setting just minutes from Estes Park. Lumpy Ridge is one such destination.
   Famous for its large granite domes and steep, irregular cracks, Lumpy is a world class climbing destination. Lumpy Ridge is composed of a number of granite features arrayed in ridge-like formation in the northeastern part of the national park. Most climbs face to the south, and get sun throughout the day, making Lumpy a popular year-round climbing destination.

White Whale follows the system of cracks and flakes
leading higher above the two trees to the right
Looking down from the anchor at the top of pitch two

   Jake and I were poised to climb the classic “White Whale” located on the “Left Book” crag. First ascended by Dan Hare and Randy McGregor in 1972[1], White whale is a three-pitch traditional-style rock climb which passes from belay to belay through large flakes and shooting cracks. We wore our soft shoes for this one. In total, the climb is about 450 feet. One can reach this climb by hiking about two miles west on the Black Canyon trail from the Lumpy Ridge parking lot.
   The climbing took us the better part of the day. Conditions were perfect, if a bit sunny, and the views and rock were both sublime. The most difficult pitch was surely the second, which passed for 20 feet through a tiny finger crack some 200 feet above the ground. Despite the exposure, the climbing was of low angle and the handholds were usually good. Surely good memories will bring us back to Lumpy very soon.

Jake pointing further west to "Bookend" crag and "The Pear" 

[1] Bernard Gillett, Rocky Mountain National Park: Estes Park Valley: The Climber's Guide(Chaple Hill, NC: Earthbound Sports, 2001), page 94.

Monday, September 5, 2011

Lost Creek Trip Report


Trip Dates: August 17th, 18th, 2011
Group Members: Tyler H
Style of Trip: Warm weather, out-and-back, lightweight backpacking

View looking south from Goose Creek Trail

Lost Creek Wilderness…an apt name for a backcountry destination. Characterized by bounding trails, blocky granite formations and pine and aspen forests, Lost creek was to be the site of my latest outdoor trip. The summer season was a good time to try out light weight gear, and it was high time for me to go walking in the mountains.

My Pack Load
My goals for this trip were to go lighter than ever, and to test out some tarp camping. I planned to use a new pack which I had picked up on a recent trip to Canada, called the MEC Klettersack. Others may say it is too small, or that it’s a climbing pack not suitable for longer trips, but I was eager to see just how far I could go with only a small pack to keep me company. I sought to accomplish this by leaving the tent at home and bringing along an MEC Scout tarp for shelter. A simple tarp is much lighter and less bulky than a tent and if properly tied out, can be good in heavy weather too. For a sleeping bag, I would be using a Mont Bell thermal sheet, an ultralight down bag weighing in at a scant 13 ounces. To cook, I would be using an Esbit stove with aluminum foil windscreen in combination with a titanium sierra cup. I usually stick to a canister stove for backpacking, since they are so easy to use and not too heavy. But this time, I needed something even smaller and lighter than before in order for me to cram everything into my pack. I would also be carrying only two liters of water. As I would be travelling with a filter, I would be able to fill up along the way as I needed. Water is one of the heavier items in one’s pack, and by carrying less of it, I will be packing less weight. This would be a virgin run for many of these items and systems in the field, and I was eager to see how things might stack up against more conventional means.  By using some new gear and dropping water weight, I would be able to move more quickly and with greater ease.

Map of my Final Route


My trip began in the early morning on Tuesday the 17th. I threw my pack into my Isuzu and sped forth from Boulder with a southern bearing. My destination, Lost Creek, lied directly south west of Denver and just north of the Pike National Forest in the South Platte area of the Rockies. This area was lower in elevation than most of my previous outings, and promised to bring new experiences to the table. My hike would begin from the Goose Creek Trailhead, located in the Tarryall Mountains in the south eastern area of the wilderness.
As I drove my way through the forest roads, my trip was almost cut short. After taking a wrong turn, I arrived at Cheesman Reservoir. The roads passing through this location were closed until May of 2012 so that Denver Water could make modifications to their water infrastructure.  While reviewing my maps from my car parked just before a chain-linked gate, a rotund security guard emerged from his watch hut to eye my vehicle. I decided to hail him, figuring he would know the way.
“Excuse me, do you know the way to the Goose Creek Trailhead?” I asked.
                “It’s closed, this whole area is closed until May 2012,” he remarked gesturing to all the land beyond the gate and more. Knowing the futility of this man’s proclamation, I thanked him and decided to discover the trail’s location myself. I knew that the trailhead could be reached from these roads, but I also knew that there must another way.  Undaunted, I headed back up the dirt road to the last turn, and took it. The road wound through the foothills of the Tarryalls. These hills were once forested, but are now bare, scorched by the Hayman fire. Damage from the fire could still be seen all around, amid new growth.
After working my way through the hills, I was able to finally find the trailhead. Silly security man, one cannot presume to ‘close’ wilderness, I thought. I arrived at the trailhead at about 9:30. The air was hot and dry, and the sun beamed down unrelenting from a cloudless sky; Classic Colorado summer weather. It was a bit hotter than I was expecting. Eager to get moving, I applied some dermatone sunscreen, swigged some water and ate a quick bite of trail food, and prepared to get moving. If I was careful to heavily hydrate before hiking, and loaded up on some food, then my passage would be easier while carrying a little less food and water. The Goose Creek Trail began from a highpoint between two mountains, and wound downward into a valley below. Walking through the old burn zone was to walk through a land in flux. Undergrowth and new trees were growing, but it would be many years before the forest was strong again.
The weather cooled a bit as the trail passed from the burn area into the deeper pine forests next to the creek. I would be following this course directly north for about six miles before it wound its way higher into the hills, heading west before curving back south. With such a light load, my pace was quick for one equipped for three days.  The trail bounded forth along the foot of a ridge on the north side of the valley. The terrain was challenging, because the trail wound up and down every hill along the way.
All too soon, my right heal began to ache with a tell-tale hotspot. If I didn’t deal with this soon, a blister would form and that would really throw a wrench into my plans. I administered some basic duct tape first aid and deigned to keep an eye on it. With so much ground to cover, I would need to keep a good pace. Hopefully duct tape would be enough to solve the problem.
I reached the first fork in the trail at around one o’clock. The trail sign pointed to some “historic buildings.” This was the “shaft house” area of the wilderness, where about a hundred years ago, a Colorado company made a failed attempt to set up a reservoir in the valley. Two employee housing buildings could still be seen. I followed a trail up another hill and into a boulder field to see what was left of this “shaft house.” All that remained was a small concrete foundation upon a boulder, and some rusted gear work. It is always interesting to see the works of man deep in the wilderness. Nothing lasts forever.
What Remains at Shaft House
I took the opportunity to pop a squat among the boulders and check on my duct taped ankle. The duct tape had fallen off completely, because my feet were too hot and were sweating.  Despite my early vigor, the blister was getting worse, and I still had about six miles to go in the day, and nearly twenty in the coming days to finish my original plan. I carefully applied some mole skin, which I taped into place with some athletic tape from my med kit. If this didn’t work, I would have to reconsider my goals.
Although it was still early in the day, I needed to keep moving. Leaving the boulder field, I pursued the trail further north and higher up into the valley. Here the terrain grew even steeper and rockier. My moleskin doughnut had also failed to mitigate my worsening blister. With my ankle becoming more of a hindrance, I was forced to consider my position. If I went much further up the trail, I would be working my way into a loop which would inevitably bend back south and meet up with the trailhead. The distance would likely not be able to be covered in a single day, and so if I journeyed further, I would be committed to a three day trip. I thought it might be a good time to find a place to camp and rest. Although I was still a couple miles from my initial target, I deemed it better to take it easy for the afternoon and enjoy the scenery. Fast hiking is hard work.
I decided to make camp off trail, high up on a rocky point, so that I would be able to look over the valley, and away from any running water which may attract mosquitos. I unloaded my pack of food and shelter, and went to work pitching my tarp. I was able to set up a basic arrangement between two trees and some big rocks. My setup would give me shade and modest shelter. I would be alright as long as there were no hurricanes. One disadvantage to the tarp is lack of good bug protection. In the past, I have used my bivy sac, which has the luxury of some bug netting, so that in a swarm I could hang out inside and be safe. But this time, I just brought a head net and hoped for the best. I was able to cook some food atop a rock and look out over the valley. The view from camp was a splendid display of forest and rock. Blocky Granite pinnacles, cliffs and outcroppings rose up out of the forest from all sides. Lost Creek was a large departure from my usual backpacking outings into the high alpine. Well below treeline, the terrain was close and thick, unlike my more familiar sweeping alpine vistas and open tundra. For dinner was a dehydrated backpacker meal of chili macaroni and beef. The esbit stove worked like a charm, bringing a single sierra cup to a rolling boil in just a couple minutes. My lightweight camp went up quick and was just cozy enough. The views were definitely worth taking a few photos.
My Tarp Camp... pretty basic
As night drew closer, the shadows crept into the valley. The valley was deep, but night came, slowly shading each rock and tree in its own time. I spent the evening sipping some bourbon and jotting down some details for the blog. The weather through the night was clear and uneventful. I was tired from my day’s trek and slept with pleasant dreams. The thermal sheet was a little scant, and I would have no doubt slept better with a thicker sleeping bag, but the bag worked good enough for the night.
When morning broke, I climbed up on my rock and fired up the stove again to make some oatmeal and tea. One fuel cube was good enough for two boiling cups of water in only a couple of minutes. Light, efficient and simple, the stove would no doubt be a good tool for other trips.
Deciding that I was unable to care to my blister properly for the next fifteen miles, and unwilling to endure soft tissue damage and possible infection for the sake of a fun-time backpacking outing, I thought it wise to turn this trip into an out-and-back and spend the day hiking back along the Goose Creek Trail to the car. This would also give me the opportunity to explore a few places I had passed over a bit more. I had travelled a distance of about ten miles to camp anyway. Not too shabby.
I ventured a little further up the trail before heading back, so I might have a taste of what lay beyond if I ever decided to return. I had finally found a decent enough solution for my blister: a fancy waterproof Band -aid from my med kit. It was the only thing that would stay on with the heat and movement. I ran into a few other backpackers on my way back. All were burdened with huge packs, with all manner of obscure items clipped on. They must have thought I was only out for the day. I was able to head back to the old buildings and check out some of the area around them. I found a number of excellent camp spots nearby and made plans with myself to return with friends. All in all, the way back was uneventful. The day was hot again, but a bit cloudier this time as I made my way through the forest and back to the burn zone where the trailhead was. I was delighted to see an unfamiliar site upon making my way back to the trailhead: A family was making their way down the trail with a bunch of pack llamas! The family seemed to be doing their best to keep things moving, but the llamas seemed just as intent on grazing. I’ve always wanted to go llama packing, or better yet, goat packing! Always something for next time.

Plans do not always unfold as anticipated, but this isn’t a negative thing. Next time, I will surely include better blister management into my kit. I will also likely go with my BD Spotlight bivy for solo trekking, as it is easier to set up than a tarp, and also gives some bug protection. The tarp will surely find use in future group trips, but its hard to argue with the simplicity of a bivy for light and fast backpacking. My esbit stove worked like a charm, although my butane lighter failed completely… always good to have a backup. I will surely be using synthetic socks for hot weather packing  in the future, they dry out more quickly and are less prone for blistering in those conditions.



Esbit Stove in Action


My Humming Bird Friend Checking out a Guy Line



View from Breakfast

Llama packers at Goose Creek Trailhead