Teton Beginnings

   Greetings once again outdoor enthusiasts. I am reporting from my new home in Jackson, WY. Over the past few months, I have been frantically getting my ducks in a row for the move. Jackson is proving to be a veritable gold mine of outdoor objectives, and I have only begun to scratch the surface. This is my first post to report on some new projects, one familiar in style and one new.

   Upon arriving in Teton County a few weeks ago, I was eager to get the lay of the land. As I had done most of my climbing and hiking in the Colorado Rockies, understanding the new lay of the land would be my first goal in putting my skills to work. By going on a ranging run, I would be able to explore approaches to climbs that I had my eye on, and get a feel for things like snowpack, weather patters, rock quality and the severity of the climbing relative to what I know. Knowing these things would make it easier when I went to put up the climb for myself. Since many of the choice routes in the Tetons lie in the high mountains, objectives typically require a longer approach, and are often more exposed than simple cragging routes in the front range, where most of my experience lies...

   My first location to check out was the Guide's Wall route in Cascade Canyon, just above Jenny Lake. This route is very popular. The climbing goes at 5.8, is six pitches, and is fairly easy to bail out of if things go awry. This would be a good climb for me to tackle after making some climbing buddies.

Cascade Canyon - Guide's Wall route is on the ridgeline in the orange oval

   Although one can take a ferry across Jenny Lake, I was running low on cash and decided to take the hike around. The weather was very finicky, at times rainy and sometimes snowy. This was good information for me about the climb itself. The season is still early, and further up the hike, I encountered a lot of snow beginning at about 9,000 ft. Although this isn't a problem, it was unexpected. I neglected to bring my snow climbing gear, and had to bail out a little earlier up the snow slope than I would have liked. Steep snow without crampons or an ice ax is typically a recipe for injury.
    I did manage to get a visual on the route, basically hiked the approach and got a good idea as to what would be required to put up the climb. Drier conditions would be more ideal, but on a good day, the snowy approach wouldn't be a problem with the appropriate equipment in addition to the typical technical climbing gear.

Storm Point - Guide's Wall route essentially follows the red line

   In addition to my usual hobbies, I am engaging in some new pursuits. My work for the summer is with a local rafting company. I am their 'jack of all trades' and am working in both offices, as well as cooking for float trips on the weekend. Two weeks ago, they sent me on one of their scenic trips down the snake river. The day was chilly, but me and the other new hires did our best to enjoy the scenery. Our float was on a 16-mile stretch of the Snake River, passing under the Moose - Wilson Bridge. This is the path of my employer's lunch trips.

Our float trip route is marked with the red line, my house is marked with
the red star in the right hand corner  = )

     I am not anticipating picking up rafting as a hobby, but with my job, I am able to go for free whenever I like. Unlike the Front Range, there is a lot of water in Jackson Hole. Rafting is a lucrative trade that employs many people. It was an enjoyable way to see the land in a new fashion.
 
   Stay tuned for tales of adventure...

Goodbye Winter Photos

It would seem that spring is here at last. Here are some more photos from my winter adventures to round out the cold season.

Indian Peaks Ice Climbing - Late November, 2011

Ouray Ice Park - January 2012

Loch Vale Ski Touring - Early December 2011

Flattop Mountain Ski Touring - Early April 2012

Front Range Skiing

   Over the past two weeks, I have been getting a taste for more of our easier terrain around the Front Range. Conditions have been windy, and there are big big slabs waiting to crush down on many leeward mountain aspects. In conditions like this, I like to play it safe, especially when skiing alone.
   In the Front Range, and other locations in the Rockies, avalanche conditions are fairly dangerous. There lies a very weak layer of faceted snow/ice crystals at the base of the snowpack, which can cause some big slides. What is posing even greater threat are large wind slabs forming in high places when snow is blown into a feature, like a bowl or cirque, and subsequently compacted by wind effect, causing a large slab layer to form on top. In conditions like these, it pays to stay to shallower terrain. That said, the snow is good, if you can find it.

skiing ideal, Hidden Valley

   Last week, I ventured to Berthoud Pass to nab some laps on Colorado Mines Peak, just to the west at the top of the past. While not an impressive vista, this snowpatch affords good opportunity to run some laps in relative safety when the rest of the terrain to the west is ready to pop. Conditions were windy, windy windy, and the snow was dry and hard.

from Colorado Mines Peak, looking southwest

conditions approaching the top of Colorado Mines Peak, windblown and scrubby

   Yesterday, I headed up to good ol' Rocky Mountain National Park. Hidden Valley, in the north along Trail Ridge Road sports some decent vert in the trees. This valley used to be a rope-tow ski resort with a few runs, but was decomissioned in 1991. The forest has not yet reclaimed the old runs. As such any enterprising winter enthusiast may take advantage of these old runs if they are willing to skin their way up first.  Conditions were windy in the parking lot, but once in the trees, it was quite serene. The weather was clear with temps in the 30's. I enjoyed a few inches of fresh powder from the previous evening's storm, which made for good fun.

making my way up at hidden valley

cruising down an east-facing run, one can see how skiing here
would be reminiscent of the resort

   I am endeavoring to better my game in the skiing arena. My trip to the Tetons help spark some renewed interest for me. By doing laps at these non-threatening locations I can stay in good shape and watch my skiing carefully. I am more easily linking turns in all conditions, which is a good start. My ultimate goal is to be able to hit the steep lines this spring. I am having a bitch of a time finding that 4'000 feet of vertical with 'ski-from-the-car' access here in Colorado though...

one must be vigilant in the backcountry, the snow pit is
one tool one can use to study the conditions of the snowpack

Teton Madness

   
     Every now and then, an adventure of such awesomeness and glee takes place that the adventurer is forced to reevaluate his goals and ideals. A week ago, I returned from one such trip. My first trip to the Tetons was at once rich, thought-provoking, and exhausting. I will be sure to be return soon.

Prospector Falls (the white flow in the middle-left area)

     Jackson Hole had been on my hit list for longer than I would have liked. I made the journey north with five days vacation from work and with the intent of skiing and climbing my ass off. An old friend offered to let me sleep on her couch, and I was on my way.

     My first day was spent exploring nearby Death Canyon, in search of an elusive ice dragon named 'Prospector's Falls.' This two pitch climb is located within an ice-choked chute right next to the famous ski descent, the 'Apocalypse Coliour.' The falls are a two or three pitch climb, rated at WI3+. My goal was to ski close to the base of the climb and get a good visual. Visibility was bad, and it was snowing hard, and Prospector's Falls was choked with spindrift. Although I was not able to climb it on this trip, I will be sure to send it upon my return.

coming up the boot-pack on Mt. Glory, Teton Pass

from the summit of Mt. Glory

     I spent my second day taking a few laps on Mt. Glory at Teton Pass, and shredding in-bounds at the Jackson Hole resort. I was keen to bring both my skis and snowboard along for the trip. My mom has long told me a tale of how she rode Teton Pass in college under the light of the full moon on a trip to Jackson from Calgary in her college years. I wanted to check out the pass for myself, and set my sights on cruising along the bootpack up to Mt. Glory, sitting just to the north of the top of the past. It was fun to continue the family tradition, although this time under the fire-orb.
     After the pass, I spent the afternoon in-bounds upon my snowboard. It was my first time on the stick this season, and it felt like dancing on sunshine. Many winter enthusiasts resign to enjoy only one form of over-snow travel, but I believe there is more enjoyment in doing a little bit of everything. The afternoon was clear, and the snow was good.
     Riding chairs make a good break does, but the other mountainous expanses beckon...

chumming it up in-bounds at Jackson Hole resort

Our query on day 3. Shadow Peak is the lower summit on the left. Nez Perce peak lies above.
Elizabeth and Nick bombed the chute riding down from the notch upon the face, a coliour called 'The Sliver'. (zoom in for a better view).

     It snowed for near the entire time of my visit. Although I had planned on doing some climbing, the skiing was impossible to ignore. On my third day, I went on a tour with my friends below Nez Perce peak. The weather was socked in when we left town, but my friends were eager to make an attempt on 'The Sliver,' a chute which darts from a notch upon the ridgeline of Nez Perce. My plan was to skin up the 4000 feet to reach Shadow Peak, scope the chute, and decide to continue up, or enjoy the finest tree skiing in fresh pow pow all the way back to the car. The chute was a little steep for me and my skis; maybe next season. Infact, my ass was thoroughly kicked before I reached the true summit of the objective. Despite my exhaustion, I still enjoyed 4000 feet of trees on the way down. Remember to eat a full breakfast, kids.

     When it came time for me to leave, I found that I didn't want to. The Tetons posed many a good challenge. I will surely have to return soon, if for no other reason than to bag Prospector's Falls and the Sliver... maybe on my board next time.
      The challenges never cease. Even as we crush our objectives, others rise in this distance, taller, scarier and even more imposing. But with axe-in-hand and ski-on-boot, these routes too, shall go in due time.

Ouray - Telluride Trip

     Hello again winter fans. Tyler here, reporting on another spectacular climbing and skiing outing. This time, in the San Juan range in southwestern Colorado. My co-worker Tobin and I had three days off of work and shot like a cannon across the state to get at some ice and snow. Our destinations were icey Ouray, and snowy Telluride. We left Boulder at 5 am on Wednesday, and were planning to spend the next day and a half  climbing ice in Ouray, before heading to Telluride to cut some turns in-bounds style. On Friday, we would head back to town on the other side of the state. Quick trips like these are one of the pleasures of living in a state as varied, but also central as Colorado.

within the ice park, upper bridge area

looking out to some gnarly icicles near the lower bridge area

     Ouray is home to the famous Ouray Ice Park, one of humanity's more creative works. The town of Ouray is encircled by the Uncompagre Gorge, a 100 foot gash in the geography. In the 90's, a local business owner and ice climber thought that farming ice within the gorge would bring a lot of people to the town in winter, when tourism would otherwise be down. Throughout the years, locals have rerouted water to drip over the lip of the gorge, allowing ice to develop over time. The result is more ice than you could shake a pick at. Wall to wall ice through miles of the gorge in good condition is enough to make any ice monkey weep tears of joy.

     The Ouray Ice Park is the premier ice climbing destination in the state. The climbing is strenuous, with most routes tallying in at 100 feet or over. Although I was able to put up one lead on an easier flow, most of our climbing was spent top roping some of the gnarlier ice we could find. The climbing was varied, technical, and very sustained and with generally good quality ice. We put ourselves up in a local establishment, and resigned to studying our guidebooks for more ice. The next morning, we would climb the ice park, then head to Telluride in the afternoon.

heres me climbing in the five-fingers area; the crux is coming up
photo credit: Tobin C.

exploring nearby box canyon falls

day 2: schoolroom area

the great frozen training center; our rope is the blue one hung
 on the right with no one on it

     The weather was clear upon our afternoon drive to Telluride, although skies quickly turned cloudy. Right after we arrived, the snow began. The next morning, we were graced with six inches of wonderful champagne powder. This was my first day inbounds of the season, and I was really able to put my fresh planks to the test. We ripped some aspen glades early on straight off the lift in order to reap the powder harvest, much to our glee. We cruised the mountain for the better part of the day, and met with a few of Tobin's local friends for some turns.  
     Later that day, we packed up and waved goodbye to sweet Telluride and the San Juans. We drove through the waning light and into the night back down the I-70 gauntlet to make it back to town, 70 hours after we had left. And three days and a shotgun trip later, I was back at work. Our trip had gone off without a hitch. We made great time, climbed at skied to our hearts content, and enjoyed ourselves doing it. All within a half-day's drive of the Front Range.

me shreddin' a groomer; photo credit: Tobin's aunt Mary

a moment's clarity on a stormy morning at telluride

Obligatory Disclaimer

Hey everyone. This is my obligatory 'climbing and skiing are dangerous' disclaimer post. 

Warning! Climbing and skiing are inherently dangerous. Serious injury or death may result from the physical demands or falls sustained while climbing or skiing. Individuals and organizations reading posts on Wanders Log bear the responsibility of learning the proper techniques and safety procedures required for safety while climbing and skiing, and assume all risks and accept full and complete responsibility for any damages or injury that may result from their use or misuse of the information contained herein.

Things you may see in my blog can often be very technical, and although sometimes seem simple in principle, can easily be taken out of context or misunderstood. Always use caution in the mountains and be sure to investigate your own systems constantly, and be vigilant of danger to yourself and your team. My own systems are 'works-in-progress', and revision is sometimes necessary.  Be mindful of the risks you undertake.

A Cold Morning's Climbing near the Divide

     January is here and ice season is going strong. I spent this morning near the continental divide, in the Front Range, and it was wind-howling, snow-blowing cold out there. Although the approach was harrowing, the wind nearly abated at the ice flow's location. Nearly. 

fellow ice monkeys hitting it up

     I thought I would be alone at the ice when I started the approach up, but was surprised to see some climbers from Denver hacking away. Our recent snow in the eastern Front Range made for fat ice, and there was much to go around.

my chest-harness setup

     My goal for today was to test out a self belay system. This is a rope system that allows one to essentially belay themselves along as you go creep upwards. A local AMGA guide taught me this system during a self rescue clinic that I took back in September. I put to use a system in which you pull slack through a Black Diamond ATC Guide in "guide mode" as you climb upward. Also, as instructed by a co-worker, I was using a Petzl Mini-Traxion self-jamming pully on a chest harness as a kind of backup. The pulley works by camming the rope as you slide it up. This specialized device is usually used for glacier travel or wall-climbing, but it works great for ice too.

ATC Guide in guide-mode

     You can see the ATC setup in the photo above. The great thing about guide mode is that you can use it to ascend ropes. If you have something attached to the rope above, you can unweight the ATC and pull slack through it. Because of it's orientation, it locks itself off onto the rope, so that if I were to fall, I wouldn't go anywhere. When you get to the top, you clip the lower carabiner on the ATC into your belay loop, and you are on rappel, and can zing back down to the ground.
     The system worked well. Once you got a few feet up, the rope would often feed itself through the pulley device. Although I would still have to rest and pull slack through the ATC, the pulley was often enough security to make a good move or two.
     You can also see  in the photo that I was set up and ready climb in my big belay parka. It was truly a chilly one.

a sweet lead by another local

     I was pleased to get back to the mountains and test out a new system this morning. I even made some new friends. Another fine day in Colorado.